How Often Should I Worm My Chickens?

Free Ranging ChickensFor most backyard flock owners, we don’t recommend worming on a regular schedule without first having your flock tested for worms. The test involves a fecal sample, which can be done by a local vet. It will tell you whether or not your chickens have a problem with worms, and if so, how severe the problem is and what the treatment should be.

Because chickens are susceptible to a variety of different worms, and because the medications used to treat these differs, it’s important to identify the type of worm that you’re trying to treat for before trying to treat it.

By practicing good flock management, you can keep your flock as strong and healthy as possible, and this will allow your chickens to develop a natural resistance toward worms. Using wormers regularly short-circuits their ability to build this natural resistance and makes your flock more dependent on the continued use of wormers.

What are the keys to good flock management? First of all, hygiene. Clean the chicken’s waterers, feeders, coop and other equipment regularly. Provide a supply of fresh, clean drinking water at all times. Keep feed out of contact with the ground. Keep bedding clean and fresh or use the deep bedding method. Second, use a good quality feed that’s appropriate for your flock. Third, provide adequate shelter against rain, wind and predators. Fourth, choose breeds that are well-adapted to your environment, climate and management style. And fifth, if possible, move your flock to new ground regularly.

To multiply, worms rely on being ingested (eaten) by the chickens as part of their reproductive cycle. If you move your chickens daily to new ground, such as you can do easily if you house them in a chicken tractor or portable coop or pen, it can go a long way toward preventing a worm problem.

If your flock has had a history of worms, you may want to schedule a regular fecal sample 2 to 4 times per year. Treat worms when necessary, then follow up with another fecal sample to make sure the treatment was effective. But also, take a close look at your flock management, as discussed above and make any adjustments necessary. With worms, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

We’ll discuss the types of worms that can affect chickens and treatments for them in a separate article.

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Which of My Hens Are Laying?


As you raise laying hens, it becomes obvious over time that some hens are more productive than others. Some breeds are better layers, but even from hen to hen within a breed, productivity will vary due to differences in length and timing of molt, health, nutrition, hygiene and other variables. Age also has a big effect on laying — on average, with each passing year, a hen in good health will lay only about 80% as many eggs as she did the previous year.

If you raise chickens for eggs, sooner or later, you’ll want to know which hens are laying and which ones aren’t. How can you tell?

A number of characteristics give a pretty good indication of whether a hen is laying well or not. Some are easy to spot at a distance and will help you to quickly identify suspected non-layers. Others require picking up a hen to examine her more closely.

Let’s look at these.

Pale Yellow Pigmentation

Many (but not all) breeds of chickens have yellow-pigmented skin, legs and beak. The yellow pigment that colors these and other parts of the hen’s body is the same pigment that colors egg yolks. The pigment comes from the hen’s diet.

When a yellow-pigmented hen begins laying, there’s a limited supply of pigment, and since more of it is now needed in the egg yolk, less pigment is available to color the hen’s body. Over time, her yellow body parts will tend to become more pale or “bleached out” looking.

This follows a certain sequence, with the area around the hen’s vent being the first to fade, fading almost immediately. The last areas to fade are the hen’s feet, shanks and hocks. See Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens or “Molting and Determining Production of Laying Hens” for more details on the sequence.

If you have several hens of the same breed and about the same age and one of them has legs and feet that are much more yellow than the others, it’s likely that she isn’t laying as well or hasn’t been laying as long. This test isn’t foolproof, but it’s a quick way to determine which hens to inspect more closely. (It’s also only applicable to hens with yellow pigmentation, which some breeds don’t have.)


Bright Comb and Wattles

When a hen is laying well, her comb and wattles will tend to be bright red. A non-layer’s wattles will appear more pale.

Behavior: Active and Alert

Because producing eggs takes energy, a laying hen’s nutritional requirements are higher than those of a non-layer. Good layers, therefore, will tend to be active and alert. When food is available, they’ll be among the first to approach and eat it. Non-layers will linger behind, tending to be lazier and more lethargic. Non-layers will also eat their fill and be done eating more quickly than good layers. When observing your hens’ activity levels, it’s good to stand at a distance or partly hidden from view so that you don’t affect their behavior.

Different breeds, of course, differ in demeanor. Leghorns (generally excellent layers) will tend as a group to be very active. By comparison, even a Buff Orpington that is laying very well may seem fairly laid back, so if you have a mixed flock, you’ll need to look at additional characteristics beyond just behavior.

Soft, Pliable Abdomen

Pick up a hen and feel the area below her vent, known as her abdomen. It’s easy to do this if you lay her on her back in one of your arms and probe with the other hand.

Is her abdomen soft and pliable? If so, the hen is likely a layer. If her abdomen is somewhat harder and less flexible, then she’s likely a non-layer, though it’s important to consider that when an egg is forming inside the hen, it will have a hard feel to it that could be mistaken for the hard, inflexible feel of a non-layer.

As with many of these tests, this is somewhat subjective and takes some practice to develop a feel for. If you’ve got a hen that you know through other means is laying well and one that’s not, a good way to develop your skill in identifying layers is to practice on each of these until you can easily tell the difference.

Wide Distance Between Pelvic Bones

You can feel the hen’s pelvic bones slightly below her vent to the left and right sides. This can be done with the hen upright or on her back as when checking her abdomen. The pelvic bones will feel slightly pointy.

With your fingers side by side, measure the distance between the pelvic bones. Can you fit the width of 3-4 fingers in that space? If so, that usually indicates that the hen is laying. A width of no more than two fingers indicates that she’s not laying or not laying consistently.

Another thing to check is the distance between the hen’s vent and her keel. The keel, at the base of the breast in the center of the bird, feels pointy. A distance of 4 fingers’ width indicates a layer. Less than that indicates a hen that’s not laying or at least not laying well.

These measurements apply to full size breeds. When dealing with smaller hens or bantams, scale your measurements down accordingly.

The Vent

The hen’s vent is where eggs come out. Moving back the surrounding feathers, if necessary, examine her vent. Is it moist? Oval? Is it fairly large?

Layers tend to have a large, moist, oval-shaped vent. The vent of a non-layer tends to be smaller, dry and round. If the hen is a breed that is naturally yellow-pigmented, as described above, the area around the vent will tend to be pale in color if she’s laying, even somewhat white or blue. If she’s not been laying, it will be yellow.

Here again, if you can examine both a known layer and a known non-layer, it will help you to identify the differences.

Other Approaches

Trap nesting is another approach that can be used to determine which hens are laying and how well they’re laying. It involves special nests that trap the hens when they lay so that you can positively identify and record who laid each egg before letting her out of the nest. It is more applicable to breeders, but we may discuss it in a future article.

Another approach that might seem obvious, but that won’t work as well in practice, is to temporarily separate your hens into separate cages or coops so you can monitor how each hen lays, individually. The problem with this approach (in addition to the extra time and space it requires) is that moving hens in and out of the flock disrupts their laying, so it can lead to inaccurate conclusions.

Further Notes

Of the tests above, checking the condition of the vent, measuring the spacing of the pelvic bones and keel and checking the pliability of the abdomen are some of the most reliable. Other, more visual checks are quicker and will help you identify potential non-layers at a distance.

As you check your chickens periodically and watch to confirm whether you see them lay or not, you will become better at distinguishing layers from non-layers. By culling your non-layers and using them for meat, you can have a more productive flock and have more space available for your most productive birds.

Your hens will molt, usually once a year. While molting their egg laying will decline or stop. Once the molt is over, egg laying will increase again. It’s not a good idea to cull your non-layers during a molt since that’s when even your best hens aren’t laying well.

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Delaware Chickens


Delawares are a relatively recent breed. They were developed in 1940 from a cross between New Hampshire Red hens and Plymouth Rock roosters.  Occasionally, the cross would produce an off-colored sport, and those were used as parent stock for the Delaware. Delawares and Delaware crosses once had a place in the broiler industry, but have now been superseded by Cornish X Rocks.  The Delaware was accepted into the Standard of Perfection in 1952.

Qualities of Delawares

  • Gentle – Delawares are gentle, friendly, and docile. An occasional rooster may be aggressive.
  • Brown Egg Layer – they are good layers of brown eggs.
  • Meat Production – because they mature quickly and are good sized, Delawares are a good source of meat for the home grower.
  • Broodiness – Delawares have some tendency to go broody, and when they do, they tend to make good mothers.
  • Heat Tolerant – Delawares tolerate warm climates well and are a good choice for the Southern States.

Delawares are a gentle breed that are friendly and may follow you around the yard.  They are a dual purpose breed that can be raised for meat and eggs.  They are easy to keep, forage well and tolerate confinement well.

Physical Appearance of Delawares

  • Comb, Wattle, and Earlobes – bright red and moderate in size.
  • Coloration – Beaks are reddish horn. Eyes are reddish bay. Skin, shanks and toes are yellow.
  • Plumage – Body and breast are white to silvery white. Hackle, tail, and wings are white with some black barring.


To check the availability of Delawares on the Murray McMurray website, visit the link below:


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How Soon Will My Hens Start to Lay?

Laying HensBecause so many variables are involved, we cannot predict exactly when your chickens will start to lay, but we can give some estimates.

Pearl White Leghorns are our earliest layers and can start to lay as early as 4 1/2 to 5 months as can Red Stars and Black Stars. Most other breeds will typically start around 5-7 months.

If your chickens are older than this and they haven’t yet started to lay, there are several things to check:

  1. Are they getting ample nutrition? Are you using a good quality commercial layer feed? Also, surprisingly, feeding too many table scraps can reduce laying because the table scraps have a different balance of nutrition than their normal feed. But in moderation, table scraps are excellent for them.
  2. Are the birds in a stress-free environment? Noisy dogs, inadequate protection from the elements, excessive handling, etc. can cause stress that slows the onset of laying.
  3. Good hygiene is important. Clean waters and feeders frequently. Provide a continual supply of fresh drinking water. Avoid letting feed come in contact with the ground.
  4. Are the birds healthy? Are there any signs of parasites or mites? Gail Damerow’s The Chicken Health Handbook is an excellent reference for more information.
  5. Are they warm enough? This time of year, that typically won’t be a problem, but it’s good to be aware of come fall and winter. Cold birds won’t lay well. Above 55°F is ideal for them. As the weather warms up this spring and summer, be sure to provide shade and cool water, as heat can also affect laying.
  6. Lighting plays a big role in laying. This time of year, with the days getting longer, lighting is not likely to delay laying except possibly in the far north.
  7. Molting can also affect laying, but it more commonly occurs in the fall. During a molt, your hens will typically slow or stop their laying as they lose and replenish their feathers.
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Silkies are a unique breed of chicken, thought to have originated in China or Southeast Asia.

The first recorded history of Silkies occurs in Marco Polo’s writings about his travels to Asia in the 13th century, in which he describes chickens with fur-like plumage black skin.

Silkies were admitted into the Standard of Perfection in 1874.

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No Cause for Alarm — It’s Just a Dust Bath

Chicken Dust Baths

He lays on one side, flopping in the dirt, with one wing slightly outstretched, flicking one leg rapidly up and down. He rolls over onto his back, kicks and writhes in the dirt.

Chicken Taking a Dust Bath

At first glance, it may seem like something is wrong with this chicken. Is there?

No. He’s just taking a dust bath. This is his normal way of staying clean and fending off parasites like mites and fleas.

dustbath-03He makes a depression in the soil, settles himself down into it, and proceeds to get himself as fully covered with dust as he can. When he’s done, he shakes off the dust and walks away.dustbath-04

The soil that chickens dust with and work between their feathers helps to absorb excess oil and moisture, helps to clean their feathers, and helps to eliminate mites and other external parasites.

Chickens will take dust baths in soil, sand, wood shavings and just about any type of loose material that they can find. Soil and sand seem to be some of the best materials.

Dust bathing is so natural to chickens, they will go through the motions of giving themselves a dust bath even when kept in a cage with no access to the soil.

If your chickens don’t have a place to take a dust bath, you can build a simple wooden box with no lid. To be large enough, it should be about 6 to 12 inches tall, with sides that are about 1 1/2 feet long. Then fill it with soil or sand.

If your chickens begin to have trouble with mites or lice, we recommend using Murray’s Dusting Powder, which is made from 100% food grade diatomaceous earth.

Murray's Dust BathThe chickens will dust-bathe in it just like they would soil. The razor sharp particles of the diatomaceous earth are very effective at destroying mites and lice.

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Our Best Egg Laying Chickens

Assorted Chicken Eggs

Below is a list of our top egg laying chickens.

1. Pearl White Leghorns

Pearl White LeghornsThese are excellent layers of large, white eggs. Pearl White Leghorns are our most prolific layers. They also have an excellent feed conversion ratio, which helps to keep down the feed costs associated with egg production.

2. Red Stars

Red StarThese are excellent layers of large, brown eggs. Red Stars lay well through hot or cold weather. They are sex-linked, meaning that it’s easy to distinguish between male and female chicks at the time of hatch by their feather color.

3. Black Stars

Black StarThese are excellent layers of large, brown eggs. Black Stars weigh a little over 5 pounds at maturity. Like Red Stars, Black Stars are a sex-linked variety. The females are black with gold hackle and breast feathers.

4. Rhode Island Reds

Rhode Island RedThese are excellent layers of large, brown eggs. Rhode Island Reds are dual purpose birds, that lay well and are suitable for meat production.

5. Black Australorps

Black AustralorpBlack Australorps were originally developed in Australia and were brought to the United States in the 1920s. They are excellent layers of large, brown eggs. Black Australorps are a dual purpose breed that can be raised for both meat and egg production. Males reach 6-8 pounds at maturity, and females reach 5-7 pounds.

In addition to these varieties, we have many other breeds that are also excellent layers, but for top egg production, these five varieties are our best.

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Brooding Day Old Chicks

Baby ChickIntroduction

There are several different ways to begin raising chickens. If you want hens that will begin producing eggs very soon, you can start with started pullets.

If you aren’t in as much of a hurry and want to take part in raising them to laying age yourself, you can start with 4 to 9 week old chicks. These will have already spent their first 4-8 weeks in a brooder, and they will be ready or nearly ready to go straight into a chicken coop, depending on their age and your climate and weather.

Or, as many folks prefer and as we’ll discuss in this article, you can raise them yourself starting from day old chicks.

Brooding baby chicks is not difficult, but it does require some care and attention to details, and it is important to be properly prepared and have everything on hand that you’ll need before they arrive.

Before the chicks arrive

Here is what you will need to have on hand:

  • Waterers — You’ll need a 1 gallon chick waterer for 50 birds. We prefer the quail waterers because the trough is narrow which makes it harder for the chicks to get chilled by standing in the trough and getting themselves wet.
  • Table sugar — You’ll add this to their water for additional energy during the first few days.
  • Quick Chick or Broiler Booster — these nutritional supplements are packed with vitamins and minerals that will help your birds grow.
  • 250W Heat lamp and fixtureBrooder lamp fixtureto supply the heat needed to keep the chicks warm.
  • Light — if the room is dark where you are brooding the chicks.
  • Brooder box — 1/2 square foot per bird at the start, increasing to 3/4 square foot per bird at 4 weeks.
  • Draft shield — if you are going to be brooding on the floor of a barn or other building.
  • Baby grit — this consists of small rocks that chicks will eat. The grit will go into their gizzard and help them crush the food that they eat.
  • Grit hopperGalvanized corner feedera small hopper to hold the grit.
  • Commercial starter feed — look for a good quality, name-brand feed.
  • Warm, boiled egg — as discussed below, this will get them off to a good start on day 1.
  • Feeder — a 20″ to 24″ trough feeder is adequate for about 25 chicks
  • Vasoline — useful for treating paste-up if it recurs (see below)
  • vetRx — useful for treating respiratory and other ailments.
  • A few black and white sheets of newspaper — placed on top of the bedding just for day 1 when you receive the chicks.
  • Pine tar or Blue Kote — in case one of the chicks begins to become injured from pecking.
  • Wood Shavings or other bedding material — Untreated wood shavings are one of the best bedding materials. See below for alternatives and other information on bedding.

Day 1


Your birds will be thirsty when they arrive. Prepare a waterer for them. Fill it with warm water so that when they begin drinking from it, it will not lower their body temperature. Add 3 tablespoons of table sugar to each gallon of water. This will give them additional energy and help them get off to a good start.

Quail WaterersThe number of chicks that you are receiving determines the size of the waterers you will need. For 50 birds, use a 1 gallon waterer. For 25 birds, use 2 of the 1 quart waterers. The quail waterers work best because they have small troughs that make it more difficult for the chicks to get wet by standing in them.

As you unbox your chicks and transfer them into the brooder, take each chick, one at a time, and lightly dip its beak into the water. Don’t submerge the bird’s head, but just get his beak wet. This will help the chick learn that the waterer is the place to get water.

Boil an egg, then remove the shell and break the warm, boiled egg into small pieces. Feed this to the chicks when they first arrive. One egg should be enough for about 15 chicks. Boiled egg is very easy for them to digest, and its warmth helps maintain the baby chicks’ body temperature.


Chicks hatched and raised naturally by a broody hen depend on her for warmth. They are not able to keep themselves warm enough alone. You will need to supply heat for your baby chicks. Usually, the best way to do this is with a heat lamp. A 250W heat lamp bulb can supply enough heat to keep your chicks warm. Use a brooder lamp fixture to help focus the radiant heat downward toward the chicks.

The first week, your chicks will need to be kept at about 90-95 degrees (F). You can measure the temperature with a thermometer, but you should also pay attention to their behavior. If they are huddling together, that means they are trying to stay warm, and you should lower the heat lamp closer to them to supply more heat. If they are spread out, avoiding the area directly beneath the heat lamp, then it is supplying too much heat and should be raised so that it is farther away from them.

Heat lamps are very hot on the surface and can cause fires. Please be very cautious with how you use them, and anchor them securely so that they cannot fall onto a combustible surface. Please also check nearby combustible surfaces, such as wood, plastic or bedding material to make sure that they are not hot to the touch. If they are hot to the touch, then move the heat lamp farther away.

Some heat lamps are designated as being “shatterproof” or “shatter resistant.” At least some of these have a plastic coating on the bulb that helps the bulb resist shattering. Plastic, when heated, produces toxic fumes, and these fumes can be particularly harmful to chickens and other birds. So we recommend that you not use bulbs labeled “shatterproof” or “shatter resistant” with your chickens.


To absorb manure, your chicks need some type of bedding. One of the best materials to use is wood shavings. Avoid cedar shavings, since those contain strong smelling resins that could be harmful to the chicks. You can typically find wood shavings at a local feed store. Be sure to avoid wood shavings that have come from treated lumber, since those would have toxic chemicals added as preservatives.

Other good bedding materials include rice hulls and crushed corn cobs.

Sand, straw and dirt will also work, but if possible use the other materials mentioned above. Avoid sawdust. The small particle size can cause chicks to mistake it for food and fill up on it rather than their feed.

It’s important that the bedding stay fresh and not damp. Damp bedding provides a place where bacteria that are harmful to the chicks can multiply. Clean out the bedding every few days and replace it with fresh bedding. The old bedding is an excellent addition to your compost pile.

The Brooder

In choosing what to use for a brooder, the main requirements are that it protect your chicks from predators, keep them contained, and protect them against drafts and rain.

Cardboard Draft ShieldThere are several different approaches. If you have a large building that already provides protection against rain, wind and predators, then you can raise the chicks on the floor of the building using a draft shield to contain them. The draft shield is a long piece of cardboard that can be arranged into a circle to enclose the baby chicks. The circular shape is ideal because there are no corners where the chicks might tend to pile up.

If you don’t have a protected building in which to use the draft shield, you can build a brooder that will provide adequate protection. For many years, I have used a simple wooden box brooder that has a plywood floor, 1×12″ wood sides and a mesh lid built on a 2×2″ frame. I put the brooder on my front porch, which gives protection against rain. I hang a heat lamp on a chain and suspend it above the brooder to supply heat. If the weather is cold, then I cover part of the mesh roof of the brooder with scraps of plywood to help it retain additional heat. When the weather warms up, I remove the scraps.

If you are raising large numbers of chicks in a box brooder, staple some cardboard in the corners to form rounded corners. This will help to prevent the chicks from piling up in corners at night, which can cause chicks to suffocate.

Start and grow brooder system

Start and grow brooder system

You may want to consider stackable start and grow units, a universal brooder box or a metal chicken brooder. These help to conserve space since they can be stacked vertically. In these brooders, the chicks are raised on a mesh floor, and their droppings fall through to a catch tray beneath. Because there is no bedding material, odor can be strong, so these types of brooders are mainly suited for use in a barn or outbuilding that has electricity to run the included heaters.

If you do some searches online for: chicken brooders or chick brooder boxes you will find many different types of brooders. Some have hinged lids. Some are up on legs. Sizes vary. Brooders are easy to build, and if you clean them out well after each use and store them out of the weather between uses, you can raise many batches of chicks in them.


When your chicks first arrive, you should aim to provide about 1/2 square foot of space per chick. For 25 chicks, that amounts to about 12 1/2 square feet, or an area slightly larger than 3 foot by 4 foot. As they grow to 4 weeks and older, you’ll need to increase their space to about 3/4 square foot per chick. If you go much smaller than this you may have more trouble with the chicks pecking each other, and health problems may increase.

A draft shield formed into a circle about 5-6 feet across will house about 50 chicks. Use a circle 7-8 feet across for 100 chicks.


It’s best to use a commercial chick starter for the first 8 weeks. Most likely you will be able to find that locally. We also carry organic feeds on our website. On the first day, cover the bedding with newspaper or paper towels. Next sprinkle some feed on the paper plus fill your feeders. This will help them be able to recognize and find the feed.

One question that often comes up is: Should I use medicated or non-medicated feed? If you have had your chicks vaccinated against coccidiosis before they were shipped to you, you should not use medicated feed because that would nullify the effects of the vaccination. In fact, one of the advantages of the vaccine is that it can provide protection against coccidiosis without requiring the use of medicated feed.

If you have not had them vaccinated against coccidiosis you can choose either medicated or non-medicated feed. The medication in medicated feeds is intended to prevent coccidiosis while allowing the chicks to develop natural immunity to it.

Day 2

Remove the newspaper or paper towels from the top of the bedding.

Check your chicks regularly. Make sure that they always have water and food available. As mentioned above, if they are huddling together to stay warm, then lower the heat lamp a little. If they are avoiding the area under the heat lamp, then raise it a little. When the temperature is just right, they’ll be running around the brooder without huddling. The ideal temperature at this point will still be at about 90-95 degrees (F), as it was on day 1.

If the bedding becomes damp or begins to smell strongly, replace it with fresh bedding.

Day 3

Baby chick grit

Baby chick grit

Continue as on day 2. In addition, sprinkle a little baby grit onto their feed. Use about as much as you would if you were salting food. Avoid putting too much at any one time because the bird might fill up on grit rather than feed.

The Second Week

The second week, your chicks will have grown a little, and they won’t need quite as much warmth. You can raise the heat lamp a little to reduce the temperature to about 85-90 degrees (F). Continue to make sure that they have fresh water and feed and clean bedding, and continue to sprinkle grit on their food.

Week 3

The third week, you can reduce the temperature to 80-85 degrees (F). As your chicks grow, they will consume both feed and water more quickly and will soil the bedding more quickly. You may need to put additional feeders and waterers into the brooder to make sure that they have plenty. Continue to sprinkle grit on their food.

Week 4

Increase the floor area to 3/4 square foot per bird.

Increase the number and/or size of feeders to provide 2 1/2″ to 3″ of space per bird.

Increase the waterers to supply 5 gallons per 100 birds.

Fill a grit hopper with appropriately-sized grits for the chicks at this age.

Install roosts at the back of the brooder area. Allow 4″ per bird with roost poles 6″ apart.

If brooding indoors, open the windows in the daytime for better ventilation. Leave the windows partly open at night.

Prevent water puddles from forming around founts. A good way to do this is to place the founts on platform stands, which can be purchased from our website or made from hardware cloth and dimensional lumber.

You can let the birds range outside on warm, sunny days, but only if clean range is available.

When the chicks are in the brooder, keep the temperature at around 70-75 degrees (F).

Week 5

Reduce the brooder temperature to 70 degrees (F).

Week 6

By this point, your chicks will probably not need any supplemental heat. If the weather where you are located is cold, wet and windy, they will need continued protection against the wind. Other than that, you can move them to a chicken pen or chicken tractor.

Special Note for Meat Birds

For Jumbo Cornish X Rocks and Cornish Roasters, both of which are very fast growing, try starting them on broiler starter. The higher protein seems to help them avoid leg problems.

We also recommend that you not let these birds eat all they want, free choice. Fill the feeders each day, and let the feed run out in the late afternoon. Research has shown these birds will grow just slightly more slowly that way but have considerably less problems than if you fed them continuously. Use a supplement such as Quick Chick or Broiler Booster in their water from start to finish to supply extra vitamins.

Potential Problems

Hard Trip

If the birds have had a hard trip, put an additional 6 tablespoons of sugar in each gallon of water. Then mix some of this extra sweet water with some of your feed to make a soupy mix. Give your birds this special feed and sugar-water mix for 3-4 days to help them recover from the effects of shipping.


It’s not unusual for newly hatched chicks to have some problem with paste-up. Some breeds seem more prone to it than others.

Paste-up is what occurs when manure cakes onto the rear end of the chicken so that it covers the vent and begins to build up there. It’s important to look for this and treat it quickly, as it can obstruct the vent and become fatal.

Treat it by using a warm, wet washcloth to gently remove the manure. Usually after you’ve done this once or a few times, the problem will clear up. If the problem continues for certain chicks, then apply some vasoline to the rear end of the chicken around and below the vent after cleaning the manure off. This will help prevent the manure from sticking. Usually paste-up will cease to be a problem after a few days.


Chicks may peck and harm one another, particularly if they are too hot, too crowded, bored or lacking fresh air. Sometimes, though, pecking can occur for no obvious reason.

With pecking problems, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Try putting in fresh grass clippings a few times a day. Also try darkening the room where the brooder is located. Make sure that your chicks have plenty of room. 3/4 square foot per bird should be adequate for weeks 2 through 5.

Pine TarIf one of the chicks begins to become injured, isolate him from the others until he heals up. You can also apply pine tar or blue kote.


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Barred Rocks

Barred RocksHistory

Barred rocks were developed in New England in the 1800s. The Barred Rock entered the standard in 1874.

The exact heritage of the Barred Rock is slightly unclear, as several people have claimed credit for developing the breed. Barred Rocks appear to have been developed from crosses between Dominiques, Black Javas, Cochins and possibly several other breeds.

Sometimes they are referred to by the name “Plymouth Rock,” a term that more accurately refers to the entire breed, which also includes other color varieties, such as White Rocks or Buff Rocks. Using the name “Barred Rock” helps to avoid this confusion.


  • Cold Hardy — the Barred Rock tolerates cold weather very well but also does well in warm climates.
  • Prolific Brown Egg Layer — Barred Rocks are excellent layers of large, brown eggs.
  • Dual Purpose — Both males and females grow to be a good sized bird with a plump carcass and yellow skin, making them a fine bird for roasting. They are an excellent farm or backyard chicken to raise for both meat and eggs.
  • Size — Males can reach 9.5 pounds at maturity and females 7.5 pounds.

Physical Appearance

  • Comb — They have a single comb.
  • Eye Color — Reddish bay.

Baby chicks are dark gray to black with some white patches on their head and body.

As mentioned earlier, Barred Rocks are one color pattern within the breed known as “Plymouth Rocks.” Some other Plymouth Rock color patterns include: White Rocks, Buff Rocks, Partridge Rocks and Silver-Penciled Rocks.

Videos of Barred Rock Chicks

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2015 Winter Chickens Photo Contest Winners

1st Place

1st Place







2nd Place

2nd Place









3rd Place

3rd Place









4th Place

4th Place







5th Place

5th Place









6th Place

6th Place

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