How Soon Will My Hens Start to Lay?

Laying HensBecause so many variables are involved, we cannot predict exactly when your chickens will start to lay, but we can give some estimates.

Pearl White Leghorns are our earliest layers and can start to lay as early as 4 1/2 to 5 months as can Red Stars and Black Stars. Most other breeds will typically start around 5-7 months.

If your chickens are older than this and they haven’t yet started to lay, there are several things to check:

  1. Are they getting ample nutrition? Are you using a good quality commercial layer feed? Also, surprisingly, feeding too many table scraps can reduce laying because the table scraps have a different balance of nutrition than their normal feed. But in moderation, table scraps are excellent for them.
  2. Are the birds in a stress-free environment? Noisy dogs, inadequate protection from the elements, excessive handling, etc. can cause stress that slows the onset of laying.
  3. Good hygiene is important. Clean waters and feeders frequently. Provide a continual supply of fresh drinking water. Avoid letting feed come in contact with the ground.
  4. Are the birds healthy? Are there any signs of parasites or mites? Gail Damerow’s The Chicken Health Handbook is an excellent reference for more information.
  5. Are they warm enough? This time of year, that typically won’t be a problem, but it’s good to be aware of come fall and winter. Cold birds won’t lay well. Above 55°F is ideal for them. As the weather warms up this spring and summer, be sure to provide shade and cool water, as heat can also affect laying.
  6. Lighting plays a big role in laying. This time of year, with the days getting longer, lighting is not likely to delay laying except possibly in the far north.
  7. Molting can also affect laying, but it more commonly occurs in the fall. During a molt, your hens will typically slow or stop their laying as they lose and replenish their feathers.
Posted in Chickens | Tagged | 4 Comments



Silkies are a unique breed of chicken, thought to have originated in China or Southeast Asia.

The first recorded history of Silkies occurs in Marco Polo’s writings about his travels to Asia in the 13th century, in which he describes chickens with fur-like plumage black skin.

Silkies were admitted into the Standard of Perfection in 1874.

Continue reading

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No Cause for Alarm — It’s Just a Dust Bath

Chicken Dust Baths

He lays on one side, flopping in the dirt, with one wing slightly outstretched, flicking one leg rapidly up and down. He rolls over onto his back, kicks and writhes in the dirt.

Chicken Taking a Dust Bath

At first glance, it may seem like something is wrong with this chicken. Is there?

No. He’s just taking a dust bath. This is his normal way of staying clean and fending off parasites like mites and fleas.

dustbath-03He makes a depression in the soil, settles himself down into it, and proceeds to get himself as fully covered with dust as he can. When he’s done, he shakes off the dust and walks away.dustbath-04

The soil that chickens dust with and work between their feathers helps to absorb excess oil and moisture, helps to clean their feathers, and helps to eliminate mites and other external parasites.

Chickens will take dust baths in soil, sand, wood shavings and just about any type of loose material that they can find. Soil and sand seem to be some of the best materials.

Dust bathing is so natural to chickens, they will go through the motions of giving themselves a dust bath even when kept in a cage with no access to the soil.

If your chickens don’t have a place to take a dust bath, you can build a simple wooden box with no lid. To be large enough, it should be about 6 to 12 inches tall, with sides that are about 1 1/2 feet long. Then fill it with soil or sand.

If your chickens begin to have trouble with mites or lice, we recommend using Murray’s Dusting Powder, which is made from 100% food grade diatomaceous earth.

Murray's Dust BathThe chickens will dust-bathe in it just like they would soil. The razor sharp particles of the diatomaceous earth are very effective at destroying mites and lice.

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Our Best Egg Laying Chickens

Assorted Chicken Eggs

Below is a list of our top egg laying chickens.

1. Pearl White Leghorns

Pearl White LeghornsThese are excellent layers of large, white eggs. Pearl White Leghorns are our most prolific layers. They also have an excellent feed conversion ratio, which helps to keep down the feed costs associated with egg production.

2. Red Stars

Red StarThese are excellent layers of large, brown eggs. Red Stars lay well through hot or cold weather. They are sex-linked, meaning that it’s easy to distinguish between male and female chicks at the time of hatch by their feather color.

3. Black Stars

Black StarThese are excellent layers of large, brown eggs. Black Stars weigh a little over 5 pounds at maturity. Like Red Stars, Black Stars are a sex-linked variety. The females are black with gold hackle and breast feathers.

4. Rhode Island Reds

Rhode Island RedThese are excellent layers of large, brown eggs. Rhode Island Reds are dual purpose birds, that lay well and are suitable for meat production.

5. Black Australorps

Black AustralorpBlack Australorps were originally developed in Australia and were brought to the United States in the 1920s. They are excellent layers of large, brown eggs. Black Australorps are a dual purpose breed that can be raised for both meat and egg production. Males reach 6-8 pounds at maturity, and females reach 5-7 pounds.

In addition to these varieties, we have many other breeds that are also excellent layers, but for top egg production, these five varieties are our best.

Posted in Chicken Breeds | 33 Comments

Brooding Day Old Chicks

Baby ChickIntroduction

There are several different ways to begin raising chickens. If you want hens that will begin producing eggs very soon, you can start with started pullets.

If you aren’t in as much of a hurry and want to take part in raising them to laying age yourself, you can start with 4 to 9 week old chicks. These will have already spent their first 4-8 weeks in a brooder, and they will be ready or nearly ready to go straight into a chicken coop, depending on their age and your climate and weather.

Or, as many folks prefer and as we’ll discuss in this article, you can raise them yourself starting from day old chicks.

Brooding baby chicks is not difficult, but it does require some care and attention to details, and it is important to be properly prepared and have everything on hand that you’ll need before they arrive.

Before the chicks arrive

Here is what you will need to have on hand:

  • Waterers — You’ll need a 1 gallon chick waterer for 50 birds. We prefer the quail waterers because the trough is narrow which makes it harder for the chicks to get chilled by standing in the trough and getting themselves wet.
  • Table sugar — You’ll add this to their water for additional energy during the first few days.
  • Quick Chick or Broiler Booster — these nutritional supplements are packed with vitamins and minerals that will help your birds grow.
  • 250W Heat lamp and fixtureBrooder lamp fixtureto supply the heat needed to keep the chicks warm.
  • Light — if the room is dark where you are brooding the chicks.
  • Brooder box — 1/2 square foot per bird at the start, increasing to 3/4 square foot per bird at 4 weeks.
  • Draft shield — if you are going to be brooding on the floor of a barn or other building.
  • Baby grit — this consists of small rocks that chicks will eat. The grit will go into their gizzard and help them crush the food that they eat.
  • Grit hopperGalvanized corner feedera small hopper to hold the grit.
  • Commercial starter feed — look for a good quality, name-brand feed.
  • Warm, boiled egg — as discussed below, this will get them off to a good start on day 1.
  • Feeder — a 20″ to 24″ trough feeder is adequate for about 25 chicks
  • Vasoline — useful for treating paste-up if it recurs (see below)
  • vetRx — useful for treating respiratory and other ailments.
  • A few black and white sheets of newspaper — placed on top of the bedding just for day 1 when you receive the chicks.
  • Pine tar or Blue Kote — in case one of the chicks begins to become injured from pecking.
  • Wood Shavings or other bedding material — Untreated wood shavings are one of the best bedding materials. See below for alternatives and other information on bedding.

Day 1


Your birds will be thirsty when they arrive. Prepare a waterer for them. Fill it with warm water so that when they begin drinking from it, it will not lower their body temperature. Add 3 tablespoons of table sugar to each gallon of water. This will give them additional energy and help them get off to a good start.

Quail WaterersThe number of chicks that you are receiving determines the size of the waterers you will need. For 50 birds, use a 1 gallon waterer. For 25 birds, use 2 of the 1 quart waterers. The quail waterers work best because they have small troughs that make it more difficult for the chicks to get wet by standing in them.

As you unbox your chicks and transfer them into the brooder, take each chick, one at a time, and lightly dip its beak into the water. Don’t submerge the bird’s head, but just get his beak wet. This will help the chick learn that the waterer is the place to get water.

Boil an egg, then remove the shell and break the warm, boiled egg into small pieces. Feed this to the chicks when they first arrive. One egg should be enough for about 15 chicks. Boiled egg is very easy for them to digest, and its warmth helps maintain the baby chicks’ body temperature.


Chicks hatched and raised naturally by a broody hen depend on her for warmth. They are not able to keep themselves warm enough alone. You will need to supply heat for your baby chicks. Usually, the best way to do this is with a heat lamp. A 250W heat lamp bulb can supply enough heat to keep your chicks warm. Use a brooder lamp fixture to help focus the radiant heat downward toward the chicks.

The first week, your chicks will need to be kept at about 90-95 degrees (F). You can measure the temperature with a thermometer, but you should also pay attention to their behavior. If they are huddling together, that means they are trying to stay warm, and you should lower the heat lamp closer to them to supply more heat. If they are spread out, avoiding the area directly beneath the heat lamp, then it is supplying too much heat and should be raised so that it is farther away from them.

Heat lamps are very hot on the surface and can cause fires. Please be very cautious with how you use them, and anchor them securely so that they cannot fall onto a combustible surface. Please also check nearby combustible surfaces, such as wood, plastic or bedding material to make sure that they are not hot to the touch. If they are hot to the touch, then move the heat lamp farther away.

Some heat lamps are designated as being “shatterproof” or “shatter resistant.” At least some of these have a plastic coating on the bulb that helps the bulb resist shattering. Plastic, when heated, produces toxic fumes, and these fumes can be particularly harmful to chickens and other birds. So we recommend that you not use bulbs labeled “shatterproof” or “shatter resistant” with your chickens.


To absorb manure, your chicks need some type of bedding. One of the best materials to use is wood shavings. Avoid cedar shavings, since those contain strong smelling resins that could be harmful to the chicks. You can typically find wood shavings at a local feed store. Be sure to avoid wood shavings that have come from treated lumber, since those would have toxic chemicals added as preservatives.

Other good bedding materials include rice hulls and crushed corn cobs.

Sand, straw and dirt will also work, but if possible use the other materials mentioned above. Avoid sawdust. The small particle size can cause chicks to mistake it for food and fill up on it rather than their feed.

It’s important that the bedding stay fresh and not damp. Damp bedding provides a place where bacteria that are harmful to the chicks can multiply. Clean out the bedding every few days and replace it with fresh bedding. The old bedding is an excellent addition to your compost pile.

The Brooder

In choosing what to use for a brooder, the main requirements are that it protect your chicks from predators, keep them contained, and protect them against drafts and rain.

Cardboard Draft ShieldThere are several different approaches. If you have a large building that already provides protection against rain, wind and predators, then you can raise the chicks on the floor of the building using a draft shield to contain them. The draft shield is a long piece of cardboard that can be arranged into a circle to enclose the baby chicks. The circular shape is ideal because there are no corners where the chicks might tend to pile up.

If you don’t have a protected building in which to use the draft shield, you can build a brooder that will provide adequate protection. For many years, I have used a simple wooden box brooder that has a plywood floor, 1×12″ wood sides and a mesh lid built on a 2×2″ frame. I put the brooder on my front porch, which gives protection against rain. I hang a heat lamp on a chain and suspend it above the brooder to supply heat. If the weather is cold, then I cover part of the mesh roof of the brooder with scraps of plywood to help it retain additional heat. When the weather warms up, I remove the scraps.

If you are raising large numbers of chicks in a box brooder, staple some cardboard in the corners to form rounded corners. This will help to prevent the chicks from piling up in corners at night, which can cause chicks to suffocate.

Start and grow brooder system

Start and grow brooder system

You may want to consider stackable start and grow units, a universal brooder box or a metal chicken brooder. These help to conserve space since they can be stacked vertically. In these brooders, the chicks are raised on a mesh floor, and their droppings fall through to a catch tray beneath. Because there is no bedding material, odor can be strong, so these types of brooders are mainly suited for use in a barn or outbuilding that has electricity to run the included heaters.

If you do some searches online for: chicken brooders or chick brooder boxes you will find many different types of brooders. Some have hinged lids. Some are up on legs. Sizes vary. Brooders are easy to build, and if you clean them out well after each use and store them out of the weather between uses, you can raise many batches of chicks in them.


When your chicks first arrive, you should aim to provide about 1/2 square foot of space per chick. For 25 chicks, that amounts to about 12 1/2 square feet, or an area slightly larger than 3 foot by 4 foot. As they grow to 4 weeks and older, you’ll need to increase their space to about 3/4 square foot per chick. If you go much smaller than this you may have more trouble with the chicks pecking each other, and health problems may increase.

A draft shield formed into a circle about 5-6 feet across will house about 50 chicks. Use a circle 7-8 feet across for 100 chicks.


It’s best to use a commercial chick starter for the first 8 weeks. Most likely you will be able to find that locally. We also carry organic feeds on our website. On the first day, cover the bedding with newspaper or paper towels. Next sprinkle some feed on the paper plus fill your feeders. This will help them be able to recognize and find the feed.

One question that often comes up is: Should I use medicated or non-medicated feed? If you have had your chicks vaccinated against coccidiosis before they were shipped to you, you should not use medicated feed because that would nullify the effects of the vaccination. In fact, one of the advantages of the vaccine is that it can provide protection against coccidiosis without requiring the use of medicated feed.

If you have not had them vaccinated against coccidiosis you can choose either medicated or non-medicated feed. The medication in medicated feeds is intended to prevent coccidiosis while allowing the chicks to develop natural immunity to it.

Day 2

Remove the newspaper or paper towels from the top of the bedding.

Check your chicks regularly. Make sure that they always have water and food available. As mentioned above, if they are huddling together to stay warm, then lower the heat lamp a little. If they are avoiding the area under the heat lamp, then raise it a little. When the temperature is just right, they’ll be running around the brooder without huddling. The ideal temperature at this point will still be at about 90-95 degrees (F), as it was on day 1.

If the bedding becomes damp or begins to smell strongly, replace it with fresh bedding.

Day 3

Baby chick grit

Baby chick grit

Continue as on day 2. In addition, sprinkle a little baby grit onto their feed. Use about as much as you would if you were salting food. Avoid putting too much at any one time because the bird might fill up on grit rather than feed.

The Second Week

The second week, your chicks will have grown a little, and they won’t need quite as much warmth. You can raise the heat lamp a little to reduce the temperature to about 85-90 degrees (F). Continue to make sure that they have fresh water and feed and clean bedding, and continue to sprinkle grit on their food.

Week 3

The third week, you can reduce the temperature to 80-85 degrees (F). As your chicks grow, they will consume both feed and water more quickly and will soil the bedding more quickly. You may need to put additional feeders and waterers into the brooder to make sure that they have plenty. Continue to sprinkle grit on their food.

Week 4

Increase the floor area to 3/4 square foot per bird.

Increase the number and/or size of feeders to provide 2 1/2″ to 3″ of space per bird.

Increase the waterers to supply 5 gallons per 100 birds.

Fill a grit hopper with appropriately-sized grits for the chicks at this age.

Install roosts at the back of the brooder area. Allow 4″ per bird with roost poles 6″ apart.

If brooding indoors, open the windows in the daytime for better ventilation. Leave the windows partly open at night.

Prevent water puddles from forming around founts. A good way to do this is to place the founts on platform stands, which can be purchased from our website or made from hardware cloth and dimensional lumber.

You can let the birds range outside on warm, sunny days, but only if clean range is available.

When the chicks are in the brooder, keep the temperature at around 70-75 degrees (F).

Week 5

Reduce the brooder temperature to 70 degrees (F).

Week 6

By this point, your chicks will probably not need any supplemental heat. If the weather where you are located is cold, wet and windy, they will need continued protection against the wind. Other than that, you can move them to a chicken pen or chicken tractor.

Special Note for Meat Birds

For Jumbo Cornish X Rocks and Cornish Roasters, both of which are very fast growing, try starting them on broiler starter. The higher protein seems to help them avoid leg problems.

We also recommend that you not let these birds eat all they want, free choice. Fill the feeders each day, and let the feed run out in the late afternoon. Research has shown these birds will grow just slightly more slowly that way but have considerably less problems than if you fed them continuously. Use a supplement such as Quick Chick or Broiler Booster in their water from start to finish to supply extra vitamins.

Potential Problems

Hard Trip

If the birds have had a hard trip, put an additional 6 tablespoons of sugar in each gallon of water. Then mix some of this extra sweet water with some of your feed to make a soupy mix. Give your birds this special feed and sugar-water mix for 3-4 days to help them recover from the effects of shipping.


It’s not unusual for newly hatched chicks to have some problem with paste-up. Some breeds seem more prone to it than others.

Paste-up is what occurs when manure cakes onto the rear end of the chicken so that it covers the vent and begins to build up there. It’s important to look for this and treat it quickly, as it can obstruct the vent and become fatal.

Treat it by using a warm, wet washcloth to gently remove the manure. Usually after you’ve done this once or a few times, the problem will clear up. If the problem continues for certain chicks, then apply some vasoline to the rear end of the chicken around and below the vent after cleaning the manure off. This will help prevent the manure from sticking. Usually paste-up will cease to be a problem after a few days.


Chicks may peck and harm one another, particularly if they are too hot, too crowded, bored or lacking fresh air. Sometimes, though, pecking can occur for no obvious reason.

With pecking problems, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Try putting in fresh grass clippings a few times a day. Also try darkening the room where the brooder is located. Make sure that your chicks have plenty of room. 3/4 square foot per bird should be adequate for weeks 2 through 5.

Pine TarIf one of the chicks begins to become injured, isolate him from the others until he heals up. You can also apply pine tar or blue kote.


Posted in Chickens | 2 Comments

Barred Rocks

Barred RocksHistory

Barred rocks were developed in New England in the 1800s. The Barred Rock entered the standard in 1874.

The exact heritage of the Barred Rock is slightly unclear, as several people have claimed credit for developing the breed. Barred Rocks appear to have been developed from crosses between Dominiques, Black Javas, Cochins and possibly several other breeds.

Sometimes they are referred to by the name “Plymouth Rock,” a term that more accurately refers to the entire breed, which also includes other color varieties, such as White Rocks or Buff Rocks. Using the name “Barred Rock” helps to avoid this confusion.


  • Cold Hardy — the Barred Rock tolerates cold weather very well but also does well in warm climates.
  • Prolific Brown Egg Layer — Barred Rocks are excellent layers of large, brown eggs.
  • Dual Purpose — Both males and females grow to be a good sized bird with a plump carcass and yellow skin, making them a fine bird for roasting. They are an excellent farm or backyard chicken to raise for both meat and eggs.
  • Size — Males can reach 9.5 pounds at maturity and females 7.5 pounds.

Physical Appearance

  • Comb — They have a single comb.
  • Eye Color — Reddish bay.

Baby chicks are dark gray to black with some white patches on their head and body.

As mentioned earlier, Barred Rocks are one color pattern within the breed known as “Plymouth Rocks.” Some other Plymouth Rock color patterns include: White Rocks, Buff Rocks, Partridge Rocks and Silver-Penciled Rocks.

Videos of Barred Rock Chicks

Availablity on Our Website

To check the availability on our website, visit the links below:

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2015 Winter Chickens Photo Contest Winners

1st Place

1st Place







2nd Place

2nd Place









3rd Place

3rd Place









4th Place

4th Place







5th Place

5th Place









6th Place

6th Place

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Merry Christmas – Happy New Year!

We certainly hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and we look forward to another wonderful New Year!  Don’t forget to start your Murray McMurray Hatchery online wish list so you can plan appropriately for 2015!

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The Masters Cup Poultry Show

The weekend of November 21st through 23rd, 2014 was one that will be remembered by many as the start of what generations ahead will read about with curiosity and appreciation.  What started as a vision from event producer, Bart Pals, to the fruition of the event being highlighted by the awarding of a $1,000 check, the Master’s Cup Poultry Show was a privilege to be a part of.  Below is quick recap of the event – more pictures and stories will follow in future posts.

On Friday night Murray McMurray Hatchery hosted a social event at the hatchery that included a very rare treat of a hatchery tour.

A demonstration during the tour of the hatchery operations.

A demonstration during the tour of the hatchery operations.

One of the unique aspects of the social event was directed by emcee Ronnie Lopes of Bermuda as he shared some interesting characteristics of life in Bermuda.

Saturday morning kicked off with Murray McMurray Hatchery hosting over 150 students from various poultry enthusiast groups for tours and questions & answers with staff members.  The students enjoyed the same detailed tour provided the night before to the poultry show participants.  It was such a treat to have one of the students tell us, “My grandmother said to tell you hello and that she has been ordering chicks from you for 70 years!”  Our thanks to the students and the adults accompanying them on their trip to the hatchery and throughout the show weekend.


One of the many student groups that toured the hatchery on Saturday.

One of the many student groups that toured the hatchery on Saturday.

At the show arena throughout Saturday, over 70 fowl were exhibited and judged by Steve

Judging the Poultry entrants

Judging the Poultry entrants

Jones and Conor Keegan.  Poultry enthusiasts from more than eight states and territories were on hand to watch some of the highest quality of fowl being exhibited.

Murray McMurray Hatchery staff preparing for the dinner

Murray McMurray Hatchery staff preparing for the dinner

Saturday night was a time to celebrate the hard work and efforts of all involved, learn the winners of the show and share in wonderful stories of past.  Murray McMurray Hatchery presented a formal dinner with catering by Hickory Park Restaurant in Ames, Iowa.

Winners of the day’s competition included:

1) Black Rosecomb pullet-Dr William Patterson-Oakland, MI
2) Light Brahma Standard-Pullet-Larry & Mark Peterson-Amboy, MN
3) White Call duck Cock-Wapsipinicon Waterfowl-Independence, IA
4) Black East Indie Cock-Lou Horton-West Chicago, IL
5) Black Australorp-Pullet-Paul Flemming-Emily, MN
6) Black Cochin-Pullet-Larry & Mark Peterson-Amboy, MN
7) Black Rosecomb-Cockerel-DR William Patterson-Oakland, MI
8) SC R.I. Red Standard-Cockerel-Adrian & MaryAnn Rademacher-Waconia, MN
9) Buff Orpington Standard-Cockerel-Dr William Paterson Oakland, MI
10) Black Ameraucana Standard-Cockerel-Max Strawn-Princeton, TX

Bud Wood (MMH), event organizer Bart Pals, with Mr. and Mrs. Bill Patterson

Bud Wood (MMH), event organizer Bart Pals, with Dr. and Mrs. William Patterson


Event organizers are already planning for next year’s event, which will again be hosted by Murray McMurray Hatchery.  More information can be found at


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Turkey Reflections by a Stuffed Pig

Another Thanksgiving holiday season is behind us and as I continue to reflect on my many thanks, a certain feathered figure sticks out in my mind – the turkey.

It started in March of this year when I put in an order for turkeys, 16 to be exact.  I chose four breeds as I wanted to see a variety – these included Bourbon Reds, Royal Palms, Standard Bronze and Broad Breasted Bronze.  At the time we lived in town but with the feasibility of living on some acreage more real in our minds than in practicality, it seemed that was sufficient enough for proper planning.  Fast forward two months and by the grace of God we found ourselves a foot on 18 acres.  The timing worked out very well as I had my order of 16 turkeys scheduled to arrive in late June.

Having raised chickens, I was fairly comfortable with the idea of raising turkeys but quiet honestly I didn’t know completely what to expect.  What does a newly hatched turkey look like?  How fast do they grow?  I could have read a ton of books or asked around among the experts, but with the busyness of the season I didn’t take the time.  I think more of it was that I wanted to experience the nuances of the journey first hand, unhindered or influenced by others perceptions and ideas.  Really, as I think about it more, I wouldn’t change a thing about that approach.

As I watched the turkeys grow and learned some of their different personalities, it was fun to identity the “leaders” of the group.  I know in a previous post I posted how I developed a cue of sorts with them through a unique whistle that let them know I was coming.  For the size they would get to be, I was very surprised at how gentle the turkeys were to be around.  While chickens are an iconic site to a farm, to see my turkeys walking around eating grass with the sun setting behind them offered a whole new level to the beauty of the summer and fall.

With Thanksgiving’s arrival, the time to harvest the Broadbreasted Bronze turkeys was upon us.  All of my Broadbreasted bronze turkeys were females but they still offered what I expected to be sufficient table meals.  My two largest tipped the scales at 20 pounds live weight.  While these were a  little underweight than what I was expecting (later reading the averages are around 20 pounds at 20 weeks – mine were 23 weeks), the weights certainly were within what I should have expected.   Just weighing the turkeys was a funny chore in itself.

The turkeys didn't want to stand still on my scale so I grabbed the first box readily available...

The turkeys didn’t want to stand still on my scale so I grabbed the first box readily available…

Putting the turkeys down was a….an…hmm….what is the word… organic or wholesome experience I guess is the way to put it.  A quick cut to the jugular was given as I had my hand over their eyes and held the body tight.  As I felt the last contractions of their pulse I placed them in a cone so the carcass could fully drain.  When it came time for plucking one thing I learned was the high importance of correct water temperature for scalding.  The first turkey we dipped was in water that was not nearly hot enough.  We paid dearly as the plucking time was a duration I do not care to recall.  The subsequent scaldings were done at a a correct temperature and the features literally came off in clumps at the touch of the hand.

We kept one turkey for ourselves and gave out a few more for others to enjoy.  As I sat at the tables of the various meals we shared, fat and happy as a stuffed pig, I had a great, new found appreciation for the food in front of us.  I remembered the many days my turkeys enjoyed out in the fresh air, scratching around in the grass and pasture, extending their wings, occasionally being chased by the ornery golden retriever, and responding to an affectionate whistle that signaled the daily meal.

During the weekend a friend stated, “I just don’t think I could eat something that I raised myself.”  I immediately saw visuals of crowded turkey houses, turkeys that didn’t know what grass felt like or knew the warmth of the sun, turkeys crammed on trucks passing me on Interstate 35 and the mechanical processing that takes place.  My question remains, “How can you possibly eat something that you didn’t raise yourself?”

I look forward to further self sufficiency and my family is making great strides towards it.  This isn’t necessarily out of fear or absolute discontent but because we can and it suits us best.  Was it work?  Yes, and it never felt more rewarding.  Of course, this process of enjoying the turkeys from hatch day to consumption took some planning.  The first thing you need to do is order the turkeys.  Here is to what was a happy Thanksgiving in 2014 and a to a new experienced Thanksgiving, through your personally raised turkeys, in 2015.

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